SCALA COELI VIEWPOINT

The Royal College of the Holy Spirit was founded at the beginning of the 17th century by Kings Philip III and Margaret of Austria. The architect chosen for the work was Juan Gómez de Mora, royal architect to Philip III. Construction began in 1617 and lasted for over one hundred and fifty years. The result was an architectural complex of exceptional magnitude, considered a masterpiece of European Baroque. The definitive configuration of the building would be completed in the 18th century, when architect Andrés García de Quiñones finished the church facade, adding the towers and the belfry with the relief of Pentecost. During this period, the main cloister, the noble staircase, and the General Theology Hall, a space that today houses the Auditorium of the Pontifical University, were built.

After the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1767, the building was divided into three parts. The church and sacristy were handed over to the Royal Clergy of Saint Mark, giving rise to its current name. The southern wing, organized around the community cloister, was designated for Irish students. Currently, that cloister houses the Vargas Zúñiga library. The college, structured around the main cloister, became the headquarters of the Conciliar Seminary. During the 19th century, and especially during the War of Independence, the building was used on numerous occasions as barracks and a hospital by troops stationed in the city. Subsequently, it resumed its function as a seminary and, since 1940, became the main headquarters of the Pontifical University of Salamanca.

Although the church was consecrated in 1665, the last section of the facade remained unfinished. The date 1754, engraved on the reverse of the pedestal of the Virgin crowning the belfry, indicates the year this work was completed. Architect Quiñones placed here the towers he had designed for the City Hall facade in the Main Square, which were never built there. The beautiful wooden model is preserved, showing similarities, but also differences, with those of the Clerecía, as Quiñones designed new towers for the Church of the Holy Spirit (Clerecía), with two superimposed octagonal bodies. In the corners of the second body, he placed obelisks preceded by statues representing the Doctors of the Church, saints of the company (Society of Jesus), and Theological and Cardinal Virtues.

Since 2012, it has been possible to climb the towers of the Clerecía Church. The route is called Scala Coeli («Stairway to Heaven»). The ascent is made inside the north tower. Through the original wooden staircase, one reaches the tribune located above the chapels on the epistle side. From an open balcony, the church's High Altarpiece can be seen. Continuing the tour, the staircase ascends, zigzagging against the walls of the stairwell until it reaches the towers. The walk through the towers is a unique experience that allows us to discover spectacular panoramic views of the city.

Upon reaching the top of the ascent to the Clerecía Towers, the first thing that catches our attention is the building itself. The spectator is truly impressed by the splendor of the Baroque architecture and decoration that surrounds us. The foreground is overwhelming. From the north tower, we get a new perception of the Royal College of the Society of Jesus. Beneath our feet is the impressive Cloister of Studies, a masterful work of Spanish Baroque. Above the cloister rises the north pavilion, an immense arcaded gallery over a hundred meters long, which closes the building on its north flank.

Turning our gaze, we see the great dome of the church rising above the transept. A thick lead sheet gives it that peculiar grayish color. From here, the inclination of the lantern, so evident from other angles of the city, is barely noticeable.

From one of the balconies, we see its twin sister, the south tower. Given the proximity, we can appreciate all the details of its beautiful decoration. If you look closely at the pedestal supporting the image of the Virgin, you will see the inscription “1754”, which informs us of the date when the church was completed. 137 years had passed since the work began. A walkway at the base of the bell gable allows access to the south tower. From this balcony, we again have the dome in front of us, home to several families of storks who have their nests here with their young, who do not seem bothered by the presence of visitors.

Once the College has been observed, the entire city unfolds before our eyes. Its balconies allow us to survey the city in the direction of the four cardinal points:

To the south: we see, first, the Anaya Major College and the octagonal dome of the Church of San Sebastián. Between the college and the cathedral stand out the large cedars of Plaza de Anaya. The New Cathedral dominates the panorama, highlighting its large dome and the Bell Tower, the tallest in the city. Every October 31st, the Mariquelo climbs to the top of the bell tower in an act of thanksgiving because no one died in Salamanca during the Lisbon Earthquake in 1755. The Ieronimus Viewpoint, located in the towers of Salamanca Cathedral, is another key point for contemplating the city from above.

Continuing our visual journey, we see the redwood tree that marks the location of the cloister of the University's Historic Building (Escuelas Mayores), situated in front of the bell gable of the university chapel. Our tour ends at the great dome of the Clerecía Church.

To the north: Our gaze slides towards the Cloister of Studies, which extends at our feet with its dynamic architecture. Behind the imposing north pavilion of the Pontifical University, a succession of monuments of great heritage richness unfolds. From left to right, stand out the facade and the dome of the Archbishop Fonseca Major College, the elegant Baroque dome of the Church of La Purísima, the sober Gothic apse of the Convent of the Ursulines and the Church of San Benito. To the northeast, the monumental facade of Salamanca City Hall and the bell tower of the Church of San Martín de Tours stand out.

To the East: below the towers, we see the courtyard of the House of Shells. Beyond, a green patch of trees indicates the location of Columbus Square, surrounded by the Clavero Tower, the Church of San Pablo, and the two almost twin towers of the Orellana Palace and the Anaya Tower.

To the southeast: Palominos Street visually guides us to the majestic Convent of San Esteban. From this panoramic view, the imposing church is fully appreciated, with its elegant dome, a work by Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón, and the splendid facade by Juan de Álava. Behind it, one of the towers of the College of Calatrava emerges, while, in the foreground, the Convent of Las Dueñas reveals a glimpse of the delicate gallery of its upper cloister, adding a touch of mystery and beauty to the architectural ensemble.