PALACIO DE LA SALINA
15 minutesFor centuries, its origin was shrouded in legend according to which Archbishop Alonso de Fonseca had it built for his mistress, after the Salamanca nobility refused to host her. It was even said that the monstrous figures in the courtyard were a mockery of those nobles. However, modern research has shown that the palace was promoted by Doña Mayor de Fonseca together with her husband Rodrigo de Messía, which explains the presence of their coats of arms on the building.
The facade and the courtyard are preserved from the original construction. The courtyard, irregular in shape and far from the typical Renaissance symmetry, combines semicircular and mixtilinear arches with a gallery supported by striking corbels with human and fantastic figures. The Plateresque-style facade is richly decorated with medallions and reliefs representing historical and mythological figures.
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The current building is the result of numerous interventions throughout the centuries. Part of its area was previously occupied by the houses of the comunero professor Alonso de Zúñiga, ceded after the Battle of Villalar to the marriage of Doña Mayor de Fonseca and Rodrigo de Messía, belonging to the imperial side. The palace was built between 1549 and 1556. The construction documents the intervention of Martín de Sarasola, an architect from the circle of Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón.
The house remained in the hands of the direct descendants of the couple until the end of the 19th century, although its function as a palatial residence had been lost much earlier. In the early 18th century, it housed the students of the Military Order of Alcántara. Subsequently, from the mid-18th century to the mid-19th century, the ground floor and basements were used as a tobacconist's or public salt warehouse. From here, salt was distributed to markets and shops. The salt supply came from the Burgos salt flats of Poza de la Sal and those of Imón and La Olmeda in Guadalajara. The palace ended the 19th century converted into a tenement house.
To save it from the imminent destruction that threatened it, it was acquired by the Provincial Council, which undertook a profound remodeling between 1881 and 1884, directed by the architect José Secall. Today, only the patio, the facade, and some of the salt deposits of the old palace are preserved. The rest of the building has been reconstructed on several occasions throughout the 19th and 20th centuries.
Two essential elements of the original palace have survived to our days: the facade and its extraordinary patio, unique among those preserved in Salamanca.
The building is articulated around an elongated and irregular patio that breaks with the harmony and symmetry typical of the Renaissance. Here, each side is distinct, giving it a dynamic and surprising character. On the south side, an elegant portico of seven semicircular arches opens, resting on columns with finely carved Plateresque capitals; although some are original from the 16th century, others were reconstructed in the 19th century by the architect Secall. The west side is closed with a gallery of mixtilinear arches reminiscent of those of the Casa de las Conchas, while in the upper gallery, the coats of arms of Doña Mayor de Fonseca and Rodrigo de Messía, the true promoters of the palace, can be seen.
The north side, however, is the most striking: it stands out for its sixteen original corbels decorated with imposing figures that, like atlantes and monstrous creatures, support the wooden gallery. Tradition says that these images caricature the nobles of Salamanca, ridiculed by Archbishop Fonseca. The west side is closed with a gallery of mixtilinear arches reminiscent of those of the Casa de las Conchas, while in the upper gallery, the coats of arms of Doña Mayor de Fonseca and Rodrigo de Messía, the true promoters of the palace.
The facade, for its part, offers an equally rich and balanced composition. It is organized into three horizontal bodies separated by imposts. On the ground floor, four semicircular arches rest on slender granite columns, decorated with medallions in the spandrels depicting historical and mythological figures, including Cleopatra. The main floor features three lintelled windows framed by columns and surrounded by delicate Plateresque ornamentation, where human figures, animals, and decorative motifs are combined. The whole is crowned with an upper gallery of eight arches that evokes that of the Monterrey Palace.
The 19th-century transformations added elements such as the large grilles and the monumental staircase accessing the main floor, as well as rooms decorated with simulated coffered ceilings, typical of the historicist taste of the era. Already in the 20th century, the restoration of the patio brought to light hidden remains for centuries, such as a vaulted crypt and several wells excavated under the floor, which today remain hidden beneath the paving, adding even more mystery to this unique building.
At specific times of the year, the palace also hosts activities linked to traditions. For example, at Christmas, a nativity scene is set up in the arcaded gallery, which attracts numerous visitors and has become a regular event for residents of Salamanca and tourists.
Additionally, as the headquarters of the Provincial Council, the building is the setting for official and institutional acts, such as receptions, presentations, or cultural gatherings, which coexist with its artistic use.
Overall, the Palacio de la Salina combines its historical value with intense cultural activity, remaining a dynamic space where the past and present constantly dialogue.