REMAINS OF THE CHURCH OF SAN POLO AND CITY WALL

20 minutes

The church of San Polo was built outside the first medieval wall of the city in the late 12th or early 13th century. With the subsequent construction of the second wall, the temple became integrated within the walled enclosure, very close to one of its gates, which adopted its name.

The original building, in Romanesque-Mudéjar style, was extensively reformed in the 16th century. It maintained its parochial function until the mid-19th century, when its advanced state of deterioration forced the transfer of worship to the church of the convent of San Esteban, whose friars had been expelled during Mendizábal's Confiscation (Desamortización). After the return of the Dominicans, the parish moved again, this time to the church of the Trinitarian convent, which since then became known as the church of San Pablo.

At the end of the 20th century, the site of the old church was occupied by a hotel. Previously, archaeological interventions were carried out that allowed the recovery of part of the temple's remains, now integrated as a visible space within the establishment itself.

In front of the church, one of the best-preserved sections of the Cerca Vieja (Old Wall) is conserved, featuring an imposing circular tower. From this point, a section of the Cerca Nueva (New Wall) extends eastward, where the San Pablo Gate (Puerta de San Pablo) once opened. This second wall encompassed the Church of San Polo, continuing its path up to the Puerta Nueva (New Gate).

The ruins of the church of San Polo are located at the beginning of San Pablo Street, on the small urban island formed by this street along with Rector Esperabé and Arroyo de Santo Domingo streets. The preserved remains constitute today the only example of Mudéjar architecture in Salamanca, since the church of Santiago was completely rebuilt in the mid-20th century.

The old church of San Polo was erected at the foot of the first medieval wall in the late 12th or early 13th century. In Mudéjar style and built mainly of brick, it could have been the work of the Mozarabic community settled in the city. At the time of its construction, it was located outside the first city wall, although with the construction of the second wall it became integrated within the walled enclosure.

From the mid-19th century, it ceased to function as a parish. Its worship was first transferred to the Church of San Esteban and, later, to that of the Trinitarians —in the current Colón square—, which from then on was called the church of San Pablo. In the late 19th century, the temple, already in ruins, was incorporated into a residential building. Finally, in the late 20th century, a hotel chain built a hotel on the site, respecting the preserved remains, which can now be seen both from the street and by accessing the interior.

On the other side of San Pablo Street is one of the best-preserved sections of the Old Wall, featuring a circular tower. From here, a section of the New Wall begins, where the San Pablo Gate once opened. The new wall encompassed the church of San Polo and continued towards the New Gate. The recent rehabilitation of this space has allowed for the recovery of the original image of some of these medieval sections and their transformation into a tourist and cultural attraction in Salamanca.

In the vicinity of the church are two sculptures created by Fernando Mayoral. One represents Saint John of the Cross, who lived in the Convent of San Andrés in the 16th century. The other, located at the foot of the wall, is dedicated to the Salamancan poet Francisco Ledesma, depicted with the charra cape and his sailor's cap.

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Religious building: Churches, convents, mosques, synagogues, and temples

Church

The church of San Polo was erected in one of the suburbs on the banks of the Tormes river, outside the Old Wall (Cerca Vieja), in the Portuguese quarter. With the construction of the New Wall (Cerca Nueva), the church was integrated within the city walls, next to the Puerta de San Pablo (Saint Paul's Gate). The parish was founded in 1108, although the remains preserved today date from the late 12th century or the first quarter of the 13th century. It was a Mudejar Romanesque style temple, built mainly of brick, with some elements made of Villamayor stone.

The urban environment in which it was located was a degraded area, with unpaved alleys, tanneries, cattle slaughterhouses, inns of dubious reputation, and a marginalized population. Adding to this situation was the proximity of the Arroyo de Santo Domingo (Santo Domingo Stream), which collected sewage and filth from the neighborhood before flowing into the Tormes.

Due to frequent floods of the Tormes, the church underwent numerous renovations. In 1529, it was enlarged by order of Archdeacon Francisco Sánchez de Palenzuela. Worship continued until 1840, when, due to the deplorable state of the building, it was transferred to the Church of San Esteban, whose friars had been expelled during Mendizábal's Confiscation (Desamortización de Mendizábal). In the late 19th century, with the return of the Dominican fathers to the Convent of San Esteban, the parish moved to the church of the Trinitarian Convent, which has since been known as the Church of San Pablo (St. Paul's Church). The structure of the old temple was then repurposed and integrated into a tenement building.

In 1983, the Salamanca City Council acquired the remains of the original church of San Polo with the aim of recovering the ruins. Between 1983 and 1984, archaeological excavations and restoration work were carried out. The original level of the temple was located, situated far below the current street level, and the Mudejar brick walls and arches that still stood were preserved. The turret with its primitive baked clay tiles and part of the 12th-century slate floor were also recovered. In the vicinity, seven Villamayor stone sarcophagi, slates with 16th-century inscriptions, and other interesting remains appeared.

In 1994, during the construction of a hotel on the adjacent plot, the three Romanesque apses came to light, thus completing the church's original plan. In the latest interventions, two sculptures of saints were discovered in the corners of the western facade, representing Saint Peter and Saint Paul.
The ruins of the temple are currently a public space with the apses partially integrated into the San Polo hotel. Granite access staircases with brick side walls were built to access the ruins. A small landscaped area next to the San Polo ruins provided a dignified entrance to the city.

The remains of the Church of San Polo constitute the only preserved example of Mudéjar architecture in Salamanca. They are located at the beginning of San Pablo Street and, since 1994, are part of a hotel. In the complex, two constructive phases can be clearly distinguished: the original Mudéjar structure, made of brick and stone, and the western facade with its tower, both erected in the 16th century with Villamayor stone. By the 19th century, the building was already in ruins, although it preserved more elements than those that have survived to the present day.

As can still be observed in situ, the temple was built mainly of brick, with Villamayor stone reserved for the plinths and some ornamental elements, such as the capitals. The church had three naves separated by brick pillars that were crowned by stone capitals. In the excavations carried out in 1992, two capitals decorated with acanthus leaves and imposts with rosettes inscribed in circles were found. The chancel was formed by three semicircular apses: the apses were covered with quarter-sphere vaults, the presbyteries with barrel vaults, and the naves with wooden truss. An anonymous drawing from the mid-19th century shows that the apses were decorated with bands of superimposed blind arcades.

Currently, the foundations of the three apses of the chancel are preserved, built with a mixed construction of brick and sandstone. Particularly noteworthy is the access arch to the southern chapel, formed by a slightly pointed triple archivolt, above which an arcade of three arches rises.

The southern facade presents a highly restored portal, with a pointed arch and cavetto archivolts, framed by a projecting roof and pilasters acting as an alfiz. Above it, three openings and a frieze of corner bricks are found.

In 1529, the temple underwent a profound transformation financed by Prelate Sánchez de Palenzuela, promoter of the Golden Chapel of the New Cathedral. His coats of arms, surmounted with a galero, still commemorate him. Under his patronage, the western facade was erected, which preserves an access with a semicircular arch and a masonry tower reinforced with ashlar stones at the corners, where his arms also appear. Until the 19th century, this facade housed about thirty statues of saints supported on Gothic corbels, now disappeared. In recent interventions, two sculptures were located at the corners of the western facade, identified as Saint Peter and Saint Paul.

The church of San Polo was built at the foot of Salamanca's first medieval wall. It is an exceptional enclave for understanding the evolution of the city's defensive enclosure. At this point, the wall —which on its southern flank runs parallel to the current Rector Esperabé Avenue in a west-east direction— changes direction to head north, skirting the Teso de las Catedrales.

In front of us, one of the best-preserved sections of the Old Wall is preserved, where an imposing circular tower stands out. From this point, a section of the New Wall extends eastward, where the San Pablo Gate once opened. This second wall encompassed the Church of San Polo, continuing its route to the New Gate.

The rehabilitation of the wall surroundings has allowed for the recovery of the original appearance of several of these medieval sections, transforming the space into a valuable tourist and cultural attraction for the city.

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Calle de San Pablo s/n Salamanca 37001

REMAINS OF THE CHURCH OF SAN POLO AND CITY WALL

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